Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Ireland

Dublin
   As Paz and I head to the Berlin airport, my excitement surges. We were finally on vacation and I was about to feed the "Europe exploration" hunger I had developed. We arrive at the airport and go to check in. The receptionist could not find our names so we give him our printed conformation. He took a look and said, "This flight is booked for next Friday, not today." Paz had accidentally booked the flights for the 14th, not the 7th of October as planned. After some panicking, asking questions, and quick discussion, we decided to stick with our travel plans and buy separate flight tickets for this day...256 Euros ($351) later we were on our way to Dublin. Let me also mention that our original tickets were only 55 Euro!
The Irish needle. The Irish are actually embarrassed by this structure because it serves no historical or cultural purpose.
  We meet with a friend I have not seen since high school, and she greets us warmly. Paz and her hit it off great. (I always love it when high school and college friends get along). She took us to down town Dublin and shows us the city. I immediately fell in love. Dublin is so charming due to its beautiful buildings. Since much of Berlin was destroyed during the war, there is ugly 80's architecture. However, Dublin still has buildings and castles as early as 1300! We eat lunch at a famous Irish Pub, The Temple Bar. 7 Euros would have only given you an appetizer in Berlin, but here I got a HUGE sandwich with fruit and cake. And it was freezing so of course we order up some Irish/Baileys Coffee.
  After lugging our bags around the city for several hours, we decide to go back to my friends place, just on the outskirts of Dublin. (The transit was a little pricey, almost 3 Euro each way, which really added up throughout the weekend. Also, for all my Berkeley followers out there, the transit system was called DART). Jess (my high school friend) shows us around her neighborhood. We check out a harbor right next to her apartment.  so beautiful!  Since Paz and I were a little rusty on our Irish history, we decide to watch Michael Collins, a great movie about Ireland breaking from British rule and the seperation between northern Ireland and the south.
  The next day, Paz and I decide to really check out the city. We bought Irish seaweed then made our way to Kilmainham Gaol (Irish or Gaelic for "jail". Just a side note, Gaelic is the strangest language I have ever heard. It was considered a dead language several years ago, but the Irish being so proud of there heritage, decided to bring it back and implemented it into schools). The jail was very interesting and went through several reform movements. I also learned that hanging prisoners was outlawed in 1890 but the last hanging done was in 1960!
view from the Gravity Bar
 We then made our way to the Guinness Storehouse, the famous brewery. The facility is huge and at the end of the tour there is "Gravity Bar" and the top of the building that provides a 360 degree view of Dublin. gorgeous!
We then checked out a few cathedrals and made our way back to Jessie's place. She wanted to give us the real Irish experience, so we hit up a house party that some of her classmates were throwing. It is more common for the Irish to have house parties because alcohol is expensive in pubs. It was quite a ways away, 2 trains and a taxi later we arrive at the party.
Here is the part where I confess my love for the Irish. Everyone greeted us and set up chairs around us so we could all chat and drink. I have been to a few house parties in Berlin and the people are cold and reserved. But the Irish were not shy at all and we had a great time. On a side note,there were a few times Paz and I were lost during the day and people were so willing to help. Not only would they give us directions, but some other tip regarding what to do once we got to our destination. They are lively people and so damn witty! At the house party I was dying with laughter.
  We get a taxi home and the driver is also a hoot. The Irish are not afraid to say what's on their mind. He  chatted away with us and made fun of Americans, Irish, and drunken girls heading home so early in the evening (despite that it was almost 3 am).

           
Abby in Glendalough from 1327
The next day Paz and I took a tour to the Glendalough wilderness and the medieval city of Kilkenny (south from Dublin). Since it was early and DART was not running, we had to take a taxi into town to catch our tour bus. We went through the back streets and saw beautiful neighborhoods and many of  the Embassies. 

Ireland is struggling from the crashed "Celtic Tiger" and our tour guide constantly made sarcastic remarks about the corrupt Irish government and economy. Paz and I were the only Americans on the tour, and since America can relate to Ireland's problems, we laughed historically at all his jokes. The Germans, British, French, and Canadians all looked at us blankly. In Killkenny I also had the Irish breakfast:
check out the ingredients! There was so much meat but it was sooo delicious! (Although this meal made me realize why Jess had said that there was an obesidity problem developing in Ireland). Later that night we explore more of Jessie's neighborhood. Irish streets are small, narrow, and sprinkled with pubs. We noticed the pubs were at full capacity, even on a Sunday night. Paz and I see a sign that says "No Biggies allowed." Paz and I argue about the definition of a buggie, I assumed it a derogatory term, Paz having thought it meant cigarettes. We ask a random person waiting at a bus stop and find out its a stroller! Who would have thought?
  On Monday we take another bus tour to the west cost of Ireland, specifically to see the Cliffs of Moher. We got lost trying to find our bus and barely made it before it was about to leave (thanks to some friendly Irish walking around at 6:30 in the morning). Of course our tour guide harassed us for our punctuality the rest of the trip. But he was cute so it's ok : D.
  The stereotype of Ireland being nothing but rolling hills with sheep is not too far off. The first few castles were cool, but after seeing my 40th, it got old. This allowed me to sleep and make friends with Germans and Norwegians sitting around me.
   Before arriving at the cliffs, we stop at this small town where Obama's Irish descendents  lived. He had recently visited the town, which explained the obnoxious amount of American and Irish flags everywhere. (Not to mention the strong smell of fresh paint). A cafe owner had even changed the name of his cafe to "Obama Cafe".
  More fun facts I learned/things I noticed:
Many houses in the country side still have a "straw" type roof. (after seeing this I no longer questioned Ireland's energy consumption)
Irish get around-> 60% of the population has Irish heritage
The Irish coffee is actually an American/Irish concoction. 
Irish girls wear too much make up. (I mean, really too much)
Germans are physically more attractive than Irish, although I prefer the Irish casual attire as opposed to the trendy, fashionable taste of Germans.
Irish couples are not "couply" and all over each other.

    The weather was horrible for visibility, but perfect for visiting the cliffs. The fog and mist made the cliffs appear haunting and gloomy, emphasizing the massive waves thousands of meters below our feet.  The wind was incredibly strong; walking became a new level of  difficulty. Every time we lifted our feet they would be blown in several directions. The powerful gusts made walking on flat ground seem like an uphill hike. I smiled as I remembered what it felt like to be connected with nature, a break was needed from any major city. (sorry for the sappy poetic tangents!)

    On the way back to Dublin, we stop for lunch. We sit and chat with our tour guide, who strongly suggested we have a pint of Guinness. Come to think of it, anytime we stopped to get out of the bus he made this suggestion.
  We arrive back at Jessie's place and reflect on the day, pack, and get ready for our 7 am flight to Brussels. After a very expensive but worthwhile phase 1, phase 2 of our vacation was about to begin!

Inside jokes for me to remember:
kein essen bitte!
das ist alles sheisse
its a computer chip!
old greg: we betta be scootin!
Paz falling on the bus


A huge hand towel that you rolled down to use; instead of throwing the paper towel away, the roll would just be washed after it was done! so cool!

Killkenny Castle


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